During the next few months, in UK, I followed the situation in Nepal on a daily basis. Reports emerged in local Nepali news papers and websites for Boudha, and after a major survey it was decided that the main dome of the Stupa was not structurally affected but that the top section would have to be dismantled and rebuilt. The same applied to some of the smaller structures. During this period local newspapers carried pictures of scaffolding around the upper structure and the dismantling of the brick built structure.

Video of Stupa renovation work in progress courtesy of the Boudhanath Area Development Committee

I returned to Nepal on 11 October and the next day made my first visit to Boudha, the top section and all the scaffolding and the Spire had been removed and the Buddhist Flags were flying from the top of the Dome. All the many thousands of bricks were stacked around the dome. Workers were removing the remains of the base of the top section and generally cleaning the site. This work continued for the next few weeks with the thousands of bricks and all the earth etc being checked and sorted.

The reconstruction began on 3 November 2015 with the ritual placement of a new central pole or 'life tree' for the Stupa at the top of the dome. The 'life tree' was erected with assistance by Lama's from local Monasteries and the workers were continuing to sort out all the usable bricks to use in the reconstruction. The 'life tree' will remain inside the reconstructed Spire together with all the other ancient artefacts previously there and retrieved during the dismantling process. The selection of photos show some of this and as far as I can find out it may take a further year to complete everything and bring Boudha Stupa back to it's former self.

Just a few days before my departure on 05 December the family members visited a monastery close to Boudha Stupa and together with many other Sherpa's they were given several small samples of the soil from within the top of the Dome. I was given one of these samples so it will take a special place together with other sacred Buddhist items I have.

Updates will follow.

Denis Gallagher
Nepal Trekking
December 2015

Video of Stupa Puja ceremony 3rd Nov 2015 courtesy of the Boudhanath Area Development Committee

I arrived back in Nepal on 14 March and during the following days and weeks made several visits to Boudha Stupa. The base of the spire was under construction and other work was going on clearing the old bricks and repairing some of the smaller structures that had been damaged. The photos show some of the progress and give an indication of the huge amount of work to be done.

A scaffolding structure had been constructed to transport the bricks to the top of the Dome by a container on rails winched up the structure. Another smaller scaffolding structure has also been made to allow the workers to walk up over the Dome to the top. Groups of volunteers, mostly from the Sherpa community, are being used to collect all the old bricks in bags for disposal and a number of corrugated iron sheet workshops have been constructed around the Dome for the workers. Renovation work is also being done on some of the smaller structures that were damaged by the earthquakes. The outer Mani Walls were also having broken plaster replaced ready to be repainted.

Towards the end of March as the base of the Spire progressed it could be seen that the 'Life Tree' was being made taller upwards inside as the new spire is reconstructed. This will be continued to the top of the completed Spire

On 10 April I left Kathmandu to travel to Khumbu the Everest region and to visit Tengboche Monastery - meeting up with all my Sherpa friends and colleagues along the way. I had not been able to visit Khumbu at all during 2015, for various reasons, and it was good to meet up with everyone.

Later in April on my return to Kathmandu and my first visit to Boudha Stupa (23 Apr.) the main base was almost complete and I could see that the workers were now filling the inside of the base with bricks also. The work continued and a week later the top tapered section of the Spire was beginning. Renewing and painting of the outer Mani Wall had started and other walls on the Stupa were being made ready for new plaster and paint.

My last visit to Boudha was on the day before my departure on 06 May. The Spire was now just beginning to taper with 2/3 sections completed. More of the outer Mani wall had been plastered and painted. The other walls on the main Stupa are being prepared as other work allows. Some of the smaller structures have been renewed and work is ongoing with others. Many Sherpa volunteers continue to collect all the old bricks into bags for disposal and they are also generally cleaning all the area and also cleaning the old plaster off the walls and preparing for new plaster and paint. The photos show the progress up to the date of my last visit on 05 May.

Back in UK I continue to monitor the situation in Nepal and later on 25/26 May a photograph appeared in one of the newspapers showing how the work was progressing on the Spire. All looking good, so I now look forward to my next scheduled visit later in October.

Further updates will follow

Denis Gallagher
Nepal Trekking
May 2016

My return to Nepal for the autumn season was not until 31 Oct. which was a month later than usual, and on my first visit to Boudha on 02 Nov. it was good to see the progress since my last visit in May.

The spire had now been finished with all the gold plated covering back in place. The old original gold base was not removed and during the reconstruction new gold was coated on top of it, 30 kg of gold was required to cover the whole of the steeple. All of the small stupas etc. were completed and work was continuing to clean and clear the whole area within the mani wall. Many Sherpa volunteers are doing the cleaning work. On my first visit all the walls had now been repainted and they were just starting to repaint the main stupa dome. In sixteen days there would be 3 days of Pujas (Sherpa ceremonies) on 18/19/20 November. These Pujas would be a purification ceremony, on 18/19 November, to purify the Buddhist Stupa, and the consecration ceremony on 20 November, in line with Buddhist culture, with the 'official' reopening ceremony on 22 November.

During the days leading up to the first Puja I made several more visits and the photos show some of the ongoing work and changes made in preparation for the reopening. The dome was repainted and the covered areas for the Lamas to conduct the main Pujas were being prepared and the workshops being dismantled. On 14 November the spire had the original sacred covers replaced and the prayer flags were replaced on the next day. Buddhist flags were hung all round the area and a scaffold barrier was being placed all round the mani wall walking path, this had only a few entry points and would be used for the various processions on the main Puja days. Many stewards from various Sherpa and other organisations were being deployed around the whole area and they would be used to look after things for the following days of Pujas. Covered areas were also erected outside the barrier and used for Lamas not involved in the Pujas as well as other people to see the processions, bands, and dancers of Sherpa and other Buddhist communities that would be present at various times on the days of the Pujas.

On 18 November the first day of the three days of Pujas many thousands of people assembled and there was some difficulties at times moving round the Stupa, with the stewards restricting people to the outside of the barriers some difficulties with the crowds and some crushing but no major problems. After some time I moved up to the restaurant I have used for many years where the rooftop balcony offered good views etc. - I used this as a vantage point on the next few days also. In the covered areas on the Stupa Lamas were assembled and conducting various prayer ceremonies to mark the purification of the rebuilt Stupa. On the Stupa spire the eyes had now been covered, these would be uncovered on the last Puja day, although at times before then the wind disturbed the cover and on the third day even caused it to fall down for some time before it was replaced. The following two days continued in a similar way

On 19 November the Lamas from Monasteries around Kathmandu and other parts of Nepal, also other countries, continued with their ceremonies and also received invited guests who presented Kattas (sacred scarves) and other gifts in each of the four areas on the Stupa.

On 20 November, the last day, there were even more people than the previous days with many more of the Sherpa community attending. This day was the blessing and the consecration day for Boudha Stupa and the Lamas as well as continuing their puja also moved up to the next level on the stupa walking round with special ceremony facing the dome. One of the head lamas made a special puja with a fire to prepare for the final purification and the consecration. On this last day a helicopter flew over the Stupa and dropped flower petals over the whole area. After the various processions of the Lamas, from each of the four areas on the Stupa, and further ceremonies around the dome the cover was removed from the eyes with the Lamas blessings, marking the consecration and the reopening of Boudha Stupa. The photos cover these three days showing some of the various ceremonies and proceedings.

On 22 November, the day of the 'official' reopening there were representatives from the Buddhist communities around the world and also some ambassadors to Nepal from other countries. Together with locals and other invited guests they were gathered in a covered area outside of the barrier round the mani wall, not on the Stupa. The numbers of local people were noticeably down on the previous days. The proceedings were relayed on loudspeakers and various Buddhist leaders, and others made speeches. The lighting of a ceremonial butter lamp by the Nepal Prime Minister marked this 'official' reopening and shortly after this all the various VIPs were taken to a Hotel outside of Boudha for lunch and this brought the proceedings to a close.

On my next visit four days later all the covered areas on the Stupa had been dismantled and we could once again walk on the main Stupa. This was the first time in 19 months since the earthquake of 25 April 2015 we could walk on the Stupa and a very special time for all the Sherpa people. All the scaffold poles were being collected in trucks and groups of Lamas were moving all the various items of tables, benches etc. that had been used in the four areas for the Pujas. Other volunteers, many from the Sherpa community, were dismantling and moving the barrier and other items, the covered areas had been removed to once again leave the mani walk way clear.

During the following days after the Stupa was cleared the prayer flags were changed several times and the sacred covers on the spire were covered over with the covers that are also changed at intervals with the prayer flags, the sacred covers remaining under these.

The rebuilding of Boudha Stupa was funded by Sherpa and other Buddhist communities from around Nepal and in other countries. 30 kg of gold was also donated; the majority of this was from one of the Buddhist Rinpoches (reincarnate high Lama) and his section of the Buddhist community. Generous donations were also received from many organisations and individuals, Nepali and foreigners, all of this making the rebuilding of Boudha Stupa possible. There was no assistance or finance from the Nepal Government.

On 08 December I made my last visit before my departure on 09 December. It was a very special moment to see Boudha Stupa open again and to join with many Sherpa and Tibetan people, early in the morning, walking on the main Stupa again with everything almost back to normal.

The restoration of Boudha Stupa is now complete. With my long association I look forward to being able to continue to join with the Sherpa people at this special place, Boudha Stupa.

Denis Gallagher
Nepal Trekking
Dec 2016